Back to Chaq: Programs thus far and personal reflections

After a month’s hiatus, MPI-Guatemala is back in action in Chaquijyá. For the first summer session, we have the good fortune to be hosting four interns, who will resume the site’s Healthy Living program, as well as English classes for teachers and primary school students in the community’s Cooperativa and Central neighborhoods. The interns arrived last Saturday on Guatemala’s national Día de la Madre (Mother’s Day). After a long, traffic-jam-filled journey to Sololá, the girls all settled in and have already made significant progress in lesson planning and enacting community projects. For example, this past week, the interns and I spent two days painting the whole playground at the Central primary school with the help of several local parents. I believe we are all still rocking paint on our clothes and bodies (for which we were told to just "bañarse" in paint thinner), but hey, its great to have a daily recuerdo of the groups’ collaboration and hard work.

The finished jungle gym!

This summer, Manna also has the unique opportunity to partner with Vanderbilt University’s Visage program. Through this program, undergraduate students pursue a semester-long class on issues related to health and development in Guatemala, which then culminates in a month of fieldwork and research in country. Having enjoyed a long-standing relationship with Vanderbilt, Manna is pumped to host four Visage students for the remainder of the first summer session. In addition to planning and leading our Healthy Living programs, each student will conduct mentored research in Chaquijyá on various health topics such as oral health, geriatric health, physical exercise, and social marketing on nutritional supplements. Both students and interns will live in the MPIG house, and participate in weekly discussions, errands, cooking, and field trips to partner organizations.

A public health student myself, I am stoked to work with these girls, and witness the results of their research. My name is Ginny Savage, and I am so lucky to be working as the Summer Intern Supervisor for the next month with Alli Eis. I first came to know Manna while working as a PD with the Guatemala site in 2010-2011, and I have to say, it is very surreal to be back in Sololá. On the one hand, many things remain exactly as I remember: the “twins” Maria Luisa buses still run to Pana frequently, Byron still instructs PE classes with clipboard and matching tracksuit at the ready, and Christian (aka “Lester”) is still the volunteer favorite. However, on the other hand, many things have changed throughout the past three years: Yessica is in second grade, Central has its own Básico, and the Sololá market is now located at the top of a impressively steep hill.

New Friends!

 I guess it is always a bit disconcerting to return to a foreign country where you have previously lived. When we live and travel abroad, we tend to form somewhat fixed impressions, mental snapshots of our host communities. Consequently, when we return to the communities, we often observe individual, geographic, and social changes that challenge these fixed images. However, though initially unsettling, it is important to realize that change is good. By definition, “community development” initiatives seek to foster growth: to enable communities to improve residents’ quality of life through desired, appropriate and feasible changes.

 In the past three years, Chaqijyá has certainly grown. Thanks to the joint efforts of community leaders, Manna volunteers, and other partner organizations, the Central neighborhood now has its own middle school, built from soda bottles and trash nonetheless. The aldea still operates a trash collection system, Cooperativa has a community garden, and teachers report more children actively speak English and practice healthy living. Such growth and development are the very reasons for why Manna operates in Chaquijyá. They are the factors that motivate 8 interns to dedicate their summer teaching English and health, and I hope that our efforts throughout the upcoming weeks will continue to bolster this growth. Regular English and Health programs will commence this Wednesday, and both interns and Visage students will post daily updates concerning the classes’ progress, field trips, Guatemala living, etc.

- Ginny

Home and Away

This past week, MPI-G and our summer volunteers celebrated America’s Independence Day at a friend’s restaurant in Panajachel. Together with the plethora of American volunteers, students, and other ex-pats living in Pana, we gathered to celebrate the birthday of the grand ole US of A. And celebrate we did. Decked out in all of the red, white, and blue apparel we could find, we laughed away the afternoon eating hot dogs and potato salad, belting to Alabama and Lynyrd Skynyrd, and swapping stories with fellow Americans abroad. In the midst of a sometimes-oppressive rainy season in Guatemala, it was great to savor a small slice of home and rekindle old friendships.

Years have passed since I last celebrated July 4^th in my hometown of Norfolk, VA (my last home celebration was in 2^nd grade!), and what’s more, 4 of the 6 past Independence Day’s, I have been abroad. However, whether in Spain, Germany, France, or Guatemala, I have always encountered the same dilemma of how to celebrate America’s Independence Day, and I believe that this dilemma draws on a larger issue that my roommates and I encounter every day. Namely, when we travel to other countries, we want to immerse ourselves in our environment and be fully present in mind, body, and spirit. Yet, in order to accomplish this immersion, must we give up our American lifestyles? Is it possible for us to be fully present in Sololá, when we sometimes crave specialty American foods, or spend nights on Skype with friends?  Are 4^th of July or Thanksgiving parties counterproductive to immersing ourselves in the local culture? It is a fine line to walk, and my roommates and I constantly struggle to maintain a balance between time spent here in Guatemala and time thinking about the States.

Throughout my past year and other travels, I have encountered several people who fall on the extreme ends of this balance. For example, some travelers and ex-pats constantly compare the United States to Guatemala, and make a subconscious (or even conscious) decision that Guatemala is simply the “better” country. Whether regarding coffee, the markets, the language, or even the pace of life, the United States does not compare to Guatemala, and many people harbor or vocalize these thoughts on a daily basis. Other ex-pats and travelers carry this sentiment to an even further extreme and go as far as to denounce their home country. Not only does the American government, culture (or lack thereof, as some would argue), and lifestyle fail to compare to the ones found in Guatemala, but they are also inferior in their own right.

On the other extreme, some travelers try to follow their normal lifestyles to a T. Favoring their American diets, modes of transportations, and language, they never dare to emerge from their comfort zones and try new ways of living. These people also constantly compare the United States and Guatemala, but America reigns superior in these comparisons. 

For me, being fully present in Guatemala is an ongoing balancing act, and I frequently find myself wavering between the two extremes. Now, there is no right or wrong way to live abroad; everyone is entitled to their opinions and to the experiences they desire. However, I believe that it is possible to walk the line and find that middle. I do want to prefer Guatemala or the United States. I neither wish to sever my connections with home nor overlook the amazing people and nature of Guatemala. I am so proud of the country that raised me, yet Guatemala is a fascinating country and I feel so blessed to have lived here over the past year. Maybe there is a middle ground; maybe you can walk the line. During the next month, I hope I can be fully present in my life here, while still embracing aspects of my own culture. So yes, I will take that hot dog, but could I get some picante with it?

Teaching Teachers - Better Path to Kids?

  One of the highlights of my (hey, Ginny Savage here) week is our Teacher’s English program. Launched in February, the program consists of weekly classes with the teachers in the Primaria Cooperativa.

  We employ two strategies for attaining sustainable English programs in the two primary schools, but take different approaches to the nature of the instruction. In the Primaria Central, we provide English classes for all students in 3^rd-6^th grades during the normal school schedule. We lesson plan with the teachers and work alongside them within the classroom to instruct the students. Conversely, in the Primaria Cooperativa, we separate our English instruction from the typical school schedule.  Hudson and Dana teach a class afterschool that targets 20 of the most motivated students from 4^rd to 6^th grade. Likewise, Karen and I lead a weekly class for the interested teachers at the school, in which we offer more formal English instruction and assistance on lesson plans and activities for the teachers’ English classes.

I have found it to be so gratifying and productive to work with teachers who can comprehend and internalize the material at such a fast pace. The Teacher’s class is intensive; we cover large amounts of information in a small amount of time. In the span of only 14 hours, we have covered: the present tense, comparative sentences, articles, descriptive adjectives, and vocabulary about weather, foods, the calendar, and farm animals. The teachers have excelled in the material and grasped the information with surprising ease.  

  Our biggest challenges in practicing sustainable development has been finding ways to kindle community members’ investment in our programs. The Teacher’s English course in the Primaria Cooperativa has been successful because the program’s participants are invested in its success. As responsible adults and leaders, the teachers understand the benefits that the knowledge of English could have on their own lives and students. They attend the class because they want to be there; they genuinely want to learn English or else they would not make the effort to come. We have already witnessed our lesson plan suggestions executed in their normal classes, and it fills my heart with joy to hear teachers asking for additional resources, information, or conversation practice.  At the end of the past class, I even found myself applauding the teachers for their efforts and enthusiasm.

  Considering the current success of Teacher’s English, I sometimes question why we do not focus more of our programs on the community leaders, the adults who can more fully grasp the benefits of those initiatives, instead of on the kids who frequently lack the investment. A complex issue, the “kids v. adults” debate seems nearly impossible to conclude.  Thus far, we focus many of our programs on children in the primary schools because it is what the community asked for.

  This reminds me of the common links amongst us all. Whether they live in an affluent suburb or cottage masked by the surrounding cornfields, whether they wear Polo (bought firsthand, not through a paca) or a huipil, whether they speak English or Kaqchikel, parents dream the best for their children, and MPIG will continue to support those dreams.

Reflections and Retreats

One of my favorite perks about being a Program Director is the retreats that MPI requires all PD’s to take each quarter, once every 3 months. Financed by the organization, these retreats not only allow PD’s to get to know another part of their host country, but they also provide a space away from work in which PD’s can further bond as a team and develop their group dynamic and vision.

Last Monday, my coworkers and I returned from our second retreat, in which we spent six days in the tropical climate of Guatemala’s Caribbean coast. The trip began with a lengthy, yet luxurious charter bus ride to the port town of Puerto Barrios from where we snagged a water taxi bound for Livingston. We then spent two days in Livingston listening to reggae, relaxing at postcard beaches, and venturing into the jungle where they filmed the original Tarzan movie. Following these excursions, we boated up the Rio Dulce to Lake Izabal, the largest lake in Guatemala, and to our pleasant surprise, both the river and the lake exceeded the guidebook descriptions

Picture a tranquil, brilliant blue river narrowly enclosed in a steep canyon whose walls are masked by cascading green plants and flowers. Innumerable white herons are nesting in the nearby shrubbery, cormorants are disappearing and emerging amidst the gentle waves, and flocks of prowling pelicans are diving into the water in search of fish. Eventually, the river opens into a lake so immense that you cannot see the mountains encasing the far shore. Now, picture yourself on a small boat amidst this nirvana. Let me tell you, it is nearly impossible not to ponder the world and your life, when you are surrounded by such an idyllic environment.

Following this reflective voyage up the river, we kayaked and tanned for one day at the isolated Denny’s Beach Resort on Lake Izabal, then stayed the remainder of the retreat in Rio Dulce town at a rustic hostel nestled into the jungle. The capstone of the trip, on the last day, we visited Finca Paraiso, the world’s only hot water waterfall. Though we all left the falls drenched in the rotten-egg smell imparted by the sulfur, it was worth every scent to be able to stand in a cool stream while simultaneously being showered by hot water. Dana and Jared, brave souls, even jumped off of the falls into the pool below.

Possibly due to my love of Bob Marley, or my passion for all things aquatic, or maybe even my weird obsession with humidity, I found the coast to be an ideal retreat location. More than eight hours away from our home and comfort zones in Sololá, my coworkers and I were able to explore unfamiliar locations together and come together as a team. Amidst the rewarding chaos of directing programs, fulfilling organizational roles, and maintaining relationships with community members and other expat volunteers, we sometimes forget to spend time together as a group. Immersed in our relationships as coworkers, we sometimes overlook our relationships as friends. I am so grateful for the retreat, as it reminded us of the importance of these friendships.

While our time with MPIG offers us a unique professional experience in the field of international development, the position of Program Director also allows us to form lifelong relationships both with community members and with our coworkers/housemates. As our time with the organization draws to a close, we must remember to cherish and cultivate these friendships. 25 years later, we may or may not remember the details of a 6^th English lesson plan, yet I am certain we will recall the memories we make together as friends. Our work will always be a priority and will shape us into our future selves. However, every person we meet, every friendship we form will also become a part of us and we must remember to treasure those relationships and each other.

Peace,
     Ginny

Think Fast

Approximately 1 billion people currently experience hunger. According to World Vision International, about 1 in 4 of the world’s children suffer from malnourishment, and about 5 million children will die this year from hunger-related causes.  

This year, in order to further our understanding of global hunger, the Program Directors at all three MPI sites participated in the 30-hour fast organized by World Vision International. Though allowed to consume fruit juice, we were highly encouraged not to consume solid foods or coffee (eek!).  In addition to the fast, PD’s also participated in service activities organized through their respective sites, and related developmental discussions. In Guatemala, we began our fast with an hour of service at a local feeding program and then conducted dialogues in house and with the Ecuador PDs via Skype. The fast was both physically and emotionally taxing, but we all persevered.

To be honest, when I first learned about the fast, I was not crazy about it for numerous reasons. Primarily, any given day, I probably spend more time eating than not, and I was not sold on the idea of forgoing food for an entire 30 hours. Additionally, I felt several moral qualms on the matter. Who were we to expect that a mere day-long fast would allow us to empathize with the suffering and turmoil of hunger victims? Watching movies on laptops, drinking clean water, and cozily sitting in our warm beds, we would be surrounded by luxuries and in case of emergency, we would have a kitchen stocked with food. Not to mention, we would begin the fast knowing that in 30 hours we would consume copious amounts of food thus, never suffering through the anxiety of wondering the source of our next meal.

The fast also did not touch me initially on a personal level, as our physical experience of hunger would not resemble the experiences of the hungry in Chaquijyá, where many residents do suffer from chronic hunger. While many of them may only eat one meal a day, they do eat. Our experience would more closely resemble the hunger of victims of natural disasters or war, whose food sources are cut off very suddenly. Like I said, there were numerous reasons, so I was hesitant to believe that the fast would affect my perspectives on working in Chaquijyá.

Having successfully completed the fast, I cannot say if the experience will affect how I make my lesson plans or teach my classes, but I can say that the fast did prove to be more enlightening than I had expected. Namely, even if the fast did not radically change my thoughts on world hunger, the experience did make me think. Though the fast was not “authentic” per say, hunger dominated my thoughts for 30 hours and compelled me to ask more profound questions about myself and the larger issue. I realized that it is impossible for me to fathom the experience of chronic hunger. This realization excited in me both a rush of gratitude for the numerous blessings I am fortunate to enjoy, and also a larger appreciation for the resilience of people suffering from hunger. All over the world, people survive on minimal food and still work, struggling to support their families. 

I am so grateful for the smack-in-face, out-of-the-comfort-zone experience that was the fast. Sometimes I need a shock to my system to make me open my eyes and see the world around me more clearly.

Peace, Ginny

Full House

One of Manna Project International’s founding tenets is to foster communities of young adults and encourage them to use their passions and education in service to communities in need. In accordance with this mission, the organization has campus chapters at 11 universities which not only raise awareness for international issues and fundraise for MPI programs, but also that send groups of students to live and serve at MPI’s three permanent sites during their spring and summer vacations. 

This March, MPIG will host 2 groups of 10 volunteers from Vanderbilt University and University of Georgia who will stay with us for one week each. Later in June and July, we will have 8-10 summer volunteers who will live with us for 4 or 8 weeks.

This past week, MPIG and I were fortunate to have a taste of life with short-term volunteers as we were joined by five wonderful people who lived with us and helped out at camp. Hailing from Colombus, Ohio, Jason Kluk-Barany and Sean McGrew arrived at the MPI house after travelling throughout Latin America for the previous month. With no hesitations, they jumped right in helping with the Art and Sports programs at our summer camp. So helpful and energetic (they even cleaned our kitchen!), we were so sad to see them leave after a week.

Dana’s friend from Engineers Without Borders in Ecuador, Mark “Marco” Rohan, also stayed with us for a week. He is also on a month-long Central American vacation from his job as a mechanical engineer, testing weapons and completing system improvements for the Navy. Definitely a smart cookie, he assisted our Science program and even led his own class about water filtration. He left on Friday to climb the highest mountain in Central America, Tajumulco, with Dana and continue on with the rest of his adventure.

We were also fortunate to be joined by Chris Barry. Originally from Dallas, Texas, Chris currently works for the non-profit organization Hug it Forward dedicated to both the environment and education system in Guatemala. Normally stationed in the Alta Verapaz region, Chris came and helped run a special program at camp, in which we focused on the importance of recycling and environmental responsibility. The campers watched an episode of LIFE, did fun crafts with recycled bottles, learned about bottle schools and stuffed their own bottle with trash. At the end of the program, numerous campers approached Chris and us with questions about bottle schools and recycling. We were so glad to have Chris present to help motivate the campers about environmental stewardship.

Finally, our last volunteer Kate Bennett will be staying with us for a total of three weeks. After farming her way through Argentina with WWOOF (World Wide Opportunities on Organic Farms), Kate received a grant from New York University to research non-profit organizations working with indigenous populations in Guatemala. She is also writing a blog for Idealist.org, a website that allows non-profit organizations from around the globe to exchange resources and identify supporters and volunteers. Our 7th roommate for 3 weeks, Kate has brought a new spark of enthusiasm and optimism to the house. She has not only provided much needed manpower and energy for our summer camp programs, but she has also contributed valuable insight on upcoming projects and we are so thrilled to have her staying with us.

After five months of life here in Guatemala, I can’t tell you how refreshing it is to see our work through five fresh sets of eyes. The past week has really re-energized our mission, work, and general everyday life. To our five new friends, we cannot thank you enough, and we miss you! To all our future short-term volunteers, can’t wait to meet you. Insert cheesy friendship quote here, I can’t bear to choose just one.

Ginny and the MPIG team.

A Congenial Cast of Characters

            One of our favorite weekend destinations is the infamous Iguana Perdida hostel, located in a small town called Santa Cruz on Lake Atitlan. Santa Cruz is a charming town with a welcoming atmosphere and a stunning view of the lake and bordering volcanoes. However, the town’s real tourist draw is the Iguana. Located right on the edge of the lake, the hostel is the quintessential backpacker hotspot. Not only does it possess bohemian dormitories tucked into the jungle of banana, avocado, and palm trees, but the Iguana also provides diving lessons and certifications, a Mayan sauna, hammocks, Spanish classes, weaving instruction, guided hikes, kayaks, a library, and a lounge complete with a fireplace and a huge flat screen, cable television. Every night, the hostel provides an all-you-can-eat, family-style dinner, in which hostel guests all sit at long dinner table and swap stories of their travels. Overall, I concur with the many guide books that say that the Iguana Perdida is its own, small but pleasant universe.

            A few weeks ago, my friends and I were fortunate to be at the hostel not only for BBQ night, but also for the hostel’s notorious costume party that occurs each Saturday. Raiding the Iguana’s costume closet (yes, the hostel has a costume closet), we quickly made friends with the other guests as we all helped each other to select the most ridiculous outfits possible. For example, while I sported a fuchsia business coat and a one piece floral jumper that could have possibly once been a bathing suit or maybe an adult diaper, Hudson donned a pink terry cloth dress, cowboy boots, and a sunhat. Lawyers and business men in the United States, two of our fellow guests wore outdated prom dresses and neon exercise suits, while two pairs of newlyweds sported tacky makeup and MC Hammer pants. By and large, the evening was a classy affair. With all of us decked out in the “fancy dress” required for dinner, we ate our BBQ and tried to take each other seriously as we discussed travelling, life, and work. Following the meal, everyone began dancing and playing games like musical chairs, limbo, and other games from our childhoods. The fun lasted well past midnight, until everyone went to bed, reluctant to relinquish their earlier elegant attire.

            For me, the evening at the Iguana perfectly embodied one of the reasons for my love of travelling. Throughout my life, I have been blessed to have backpacked in many countries, including the Dominican Republic, the majority of Western Europe, and Germany for the FIFA World Cup in 2006. I have most often travelled alone, but no matter the destination, I have always met fellow backpackers and have left the place with new friends and memories.  Innumerable people have shared a similar experience. When travelling, it is very common and almost expected for strangers to meet and immediately make plans to grab dinner or explore the location. Somehow, making new friends is just easier when you are travelling.

            I believe that these quickly established friendships are not just random phenomena or trivial occurrences, but that they are in fact the most magical components of the travelling or backpacking experience and should neither be underestimated nor overlooked. At the Iguana, I helped complete strangers to select some of the most absurd outfits that they have ever seen. I cannot say their favorite stores, their political opinions, or what cars they drive, but I can say that we now share a bond, a common memory that we will cherish for years to come. And thus is the magic of travelling. When you meet another backpacker in transit, the superficial facts about his life cease to matter.  You both occupy a liminal space, that is to say that you both are living in transit and out of your comfort zones, and this mutual liminality creates profound bonds based on shared experiences rather than common interests or opinions. While the bonds between backpackers are in no way better than the friendships established at home, these connections are special and magical both in their depth and in the speed with which they are forged.

            Perhaps the power of liminality applies to even more than friendships. Perhaps, not in the routines of daily life, but instead in the breaks from these routines can a person can best strengthen his self awareness and world perspectives. I do not know if this idea is true or not, however I do hope that everyone can and will seize the opportunity to travel and experience the magic of these friendships firsthand.

Peace

Ginny Savage

Fully furnished & ready to go...

View from the balcony of our new house :)

              Today is a very special day. Why, you ask? Well, it’s because today marks the end of settling into our new house! After several weeks of searching, negotiating, and nesting, we are finally settled into what will be our home for the next year, and the potential home for future generations of MPI Guatemala’s Program Directors. The house is beautiful and already feels like home. Located at the entrance to Sololá, it has three stories, classy red tile floors, white stucco-ish walls, and rich wood ceilings. Personally, my favorite aspect of the house is the view. From our balcony on the 3^rd floor, we overlook our neighbors’ courtyard and corn fields, and we can see the plaza in Sololá. Plus, every room (minus the bathrooms) boasts an incredible view of Lake Atitlán and its three surrounding volcanoes. Truly, I feel as though we are living in a postcard photo. What an amazing opportunity to be able to live and work every day in a location so breathtaking!

Our new, beautifully furnished living room

Ginny in the kitchen (with Dina?)

Another view from our balcony into the heart of Solola.  You can also see the feria streamers!

              Let me tell you though, attaining our house certainly was no easy feat. Finding and furnishing the house required teamwork, persistence, and creativity. In a way, I believe that our housing search was the first significant, Manna-related challenge that our group has successfully faced. Here’s how it all went down…

              Before the other PD’s and I arrived in Guatemala, our two fearless Country Directors Kat and Dana had scoped the area around Chaquijyá for houses and had found two potential options. However, during our stay in San Pedro, we were aggrieved to learn that not only would the construction on one house not be completed in time for our arrival, but also the second option would not be as feasible as we had originally expected. Consequently, the team and I quickly had to devise alternate plans to find a home. In most of Guatemala, most house hunters do not use real estate agents, but instead learn of available homes through their friends and extended families. While we did not have a large social network in place in Sololá, we decided to see if this same system would also work for us.  Thus, following a brilliant idea from Kat, we travelled to Sololá after our morning classes, and divided into groups to post flyers around the city advertising our needs. While posting the flyers, we also met several residents of Sololá and asked them if they knew of any houses for rent.

              As you can guess, the plan was successful! With the help of our flyers and the friendly residents of Sololá, we found four great potential houses during that first afternoon, and now have our beautiful (and feasible) home! Although we encountered some difficulties in installing our stove, water deposit, and washing machine, those obstacles have been tackled and I know we are all so happy with the furnishings and layout of the house. I guess our process is testament to the old phrase: “If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again.” Having overcome our first set of challenges, we begin work in the community with our bags unpacked and our heads held high.

We bought so much from our new friend Trinidad that he threw in a free toaster!

              Throughout our house hunting adventure, the group and I were also fortunate to receive visits from two of the founding Program Directors for MPI Ecuador. Currently a Spanish teacher in Oakland, California and all-around baller, Craig Smith visited and stayed with us in San Pedro for a week. Besides joining us on our sunrise hike up the Indian’s Nose and many social activities, Craig also greatly helped us as we negotiated with landlords and met to choose the best of the four housing options. Two weeks later, a current MPI Board Member, Zak Schwarzman joined us to celebrate moving in to the new house. Together with his hysterical girlfriend Briget, Zak took us down in several rounds of the Ecuadorian card game Cuarenta, but we've been practicing and are ready for a rematch. Overall, our time with Zak, Craig, and Bridget was fun and beneficial for our group. Not only did they share some great stories from their experiences in Ecuador, but they also imparted useful and thought-provoking advice, and gave our group a clearer picture of the mission of Manna Project as an organization.

Cuarenta with Zak in our living room... before it was furnished.

               Recently, after meeting Zak and Craig, it occurred to me that everyone I have met from MPI, every board member, every Country Director, and all the past and current Program Directors have amazed me with their intelligence, dedication, and overall spunky personalities. I feel so incredibly lucky to be part of an organization filled with such amazing individuals. I know that by working together with MPI past, present, and future, we can make a difference; and I cannot wait to see how the year progresses for all three sites and for Manna Project as a whole.

Ginny

Yo no se manana

¡Bienvenidos from MPI Guatemala’s new house in Sololá!

Our first attempt at a group photo from our balcony

     During the past three weeks, my fellow PD’s and I have been living, learning, and experiencing San Pedro La Laguna, an incredibly picturesque Tz’utujil and hippie-tourist town located on the world famous Lake Atitlan. Not only were we able to take intensive Spanish classes every morning, but we also soaked up Maya culture firsthand. Our classes were held at the San Pedro Spanish School, which provided an enjoyable (and much needed) recap of Spanish. Working one-on-one with an instructor, each of us significantly improved our conversation skills and developed close relationships with our teachers. (Please note: the Gringa girls still remain undefeated in the student vs. teacher weekly fútbol games.) All of us were sad to leave the school, but I am confident that we will visit often throughout the year. Plus, for our farewell graduation “speech,” the six of us changed the lyrics to Luis Enrique’s “Yo no sé mañana, and performed it in front of the whole school.

Our graduation song presentation

            While taking classes, each of us stayed with host families that lived near the school.  All of our families were welcoming and friendly. My host parents not only owned a laundromat and a restaurant (so the food was great), but they also used to work as tour guides. Listening to their abundance of stories about Maya legends and traditions, I received an amazing first taste of the local culture in the Guatemalan highlands, and grew even more excited to work in Chaquijyá for the upcoming year.

            For the afternoons and weekends, we spent our time exploring the natural beauty of San Pedro with an eclectic assortment of fellow travelers local residents. Between scaling the Indian Nose mountain to see the sunrise, bathing in solar pools, horseback riding, attending salsa lessons, kayaking to the neighboring organic town of San Marcos, and learning to make paper lanterns, we all kept ourselves quite occupied.  My favorite excursion was our visit to the annual Feria held in Santiago Atitlán.  Just a brief lancha (boat taxi) ride from San Pedro, Santiago experienced numerous tragedies during the brutal 30 year Civil War.  Because of the atrocities committed during the Civil War, the government now forbids the military from entering the town.

An array of onlookers as Jared tries his hand at one of the games at Feria

            I am continuously amazed by the outlook of the Maya peoples despite the recent tragedies. Practically every Maya alive today lost family members and fled their homes, yet these same people are the most generous, amicable, and positive people I have ever met. An interesting fact, despite the lingering horrors of the war, Guatemala ranks #4 on the New Economics Foundation’s Happy Planet Index. Hearing the stories of the local people and observing daily life, I'm inspired by their resilience, and I am filled with awe at the Maya’s ability to maintain their traditions in the face of discrimination and violence. Although we will be leading various classes in the Maya community of Chaquijyá, more importantly, this year will be a cultural exchange and learning opportunity for us both.

            For me, the past three weeks have provided the perfect transition to our new life and work in Sololá and Chaquijyá. Not only have we been able to come together as a group and improve our Spanish, but our time in San Pedro has also allowed us to better acclimate to a new lifestyle and society. Now, as we nest in our house and begin to discuss our programs and positions, my excitement for the upcoming year continues to swell, and I am even more grateful for the opportunities and lessons we have been given throughout the past few weeks.

Relaxing at the top of Indian Nose Moutain

Ginny Savage & the MPIG team